Hair Basics #1: What’s My Natural Hair Type and Why Does It Matter?

If you’re like me, you have a love-hate relationship with your afro textured hair. The styles and products that work for others won’t work for you, so it’s hard to find the right advice. The first step to love your natural hair is to know what type it is to begin with, and here’s why. 

1. Take the headache out of choosing hair products 

Browse online or walk into a store looking for products and you’ll be overwhelmed by options. Which shampoo or conditioner will work for your natural hair? What styling hacks can you DIY for great results? Black people’s hair responds differently from one individual to the next. Know your specific hair type and pick exactly what works for you. 

2. Style your natural hair properly 

We almost always default to straightening or braids, but maybe your ideal style is to leave your hair alone! That’s what I found out after years of trying all kinds of styles. If you prefer to change your look every so often, know how to style black natural hair to look great and grow strong. 

3. Troubleshoot your bad hair days 

Sometimes, African American hair just doesn’t want to cooperate no matter how hard we try. You want a tall, voluminous afro but your hair wants to shrink. You want defined curls but end up with dreadlocks. Know your hair type to end this struggle once and for all. 

2 Main Types of Afro Textured Hair 

Broadly speaking, there are four types of hair: 1 (straight) 2 (wavy), 3 (curly), and 4 (coily). Afro textured hair falls under type 3 and 4. 

Type 3 hair defined

Type 3 hair is literally curly; each strand looks like a spring. Your curls may be loose and luscious or tighter and more defined. Your hair is also on the softer side, so it responds super-easily to the elements, like humid or dry weather, or gets loose on windy days. 

Type 4 hair defined 

Type 4 hair is more coily or kinky, and it’s what most people think of when they hear “black people’s hair”. The tight coils mean your hair tends to shrink to a fraction of its length, and it tends to mat together too. Type 4 hair is great for dreadlocks, but it’s also quite dry and fragile. 

Tip: If your hair can wrap around a felt tip pen or marker, your hair is type 3. If your strands can barely coil around a cotton swab (q-tip), your hair is type 4.  

Within these categories, hair types fall under three more groups. For example, type 3 hair has 3A, 3B, and 3C. We’ll go into these subcategories later in more detail. For now, let’s discuss the similarities and differences between type 3 and 4 hair–you’ll understand why black people’s hair struggles are so alike, but also different in unique ways. 

How is Type 3 and Type 4 Hair Similar?

• Both have defined, natural curls. 
• Both need plenty of moisturizing, otherwise the strands become brittle. 
• Both are quite delicate, so disentangle with care. 
• Both are very versatile in styling (you can never run out of natural hairstyles)

How is Type 3 and Type 4 Hair Different? 

• Type 3 has more defined curls than type 4, which has more compact strands
• Type 3 hair is softer and smoother than type 4, which has a more coarse texture 
• Type 3 strands are more spaced out while type 4 hair strands are more densely-packed together
• Type 3 hair shrinks less than type 4 hair because of the difference in texture and density 

Manage Your Natural Hair the Right Way  

Some people assume that type 3 hair is more manageable than type 4, but it’s all about how you care for your crown. I found freedom in letting my dense type 4 hair grow out, haven’t touched a comb in years! My hair works best with a wash-and-go style, shaped just with my fingers to define the curls a little more. Know your natural hair type and show it some love.